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Weekly Wyer: Raw Denim

Raw denim, what’s all the hype about? What makes these expensive (some pairs can be up to $2,000) jeans so “cool?” Recently, raw denim has started to become a popular trend in fashion. What is it that makes it so special? And what justifies its high pricing? Raw denim is denim that is dipped in the indigo dye and not washed afterwards. This allows for “sick fadez” to form within the denim and allow each pair to become your own. These jeans are not meant to be washed like your normal denim. Since the indigo dye is clinging to the cotton, the first wash is supposed to replace that step that was left out of the factory. By waiting an extended period of time to wash your denim -generally six months- these fades, that are unique to each individual pair will start to form.

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A pair of A.P.C.s before and after. The after pair has been worn for two years and has only received two washes. (Photos courtesy of Rawr Denim user ClassicIsCrucial)

Generally, raw denim goes hand in hand with selvedge denim. Selvedge denim is made on old shuttle looms, which are not commonly used in the denim world. A selvedge line is an inseam where all of the fabric is used to maximize the use of the denim. A contrast stitch(normally red) would be used by fabric mills to differentiate the fabric that was used. Now, the selvedge line is normally used for aesthetics. The selvedge line does not define raw denim and vice-versa. Just because the denim has a selvedge line does not mean it is raw, and just because there is no selvedge line does not mean that it isn’t raw.

In my opinion, raw denim is superior to the off-the-rack denim you can find at the mall in every way. The attention to detail is probably the highlight to the denim. Brands such as A.P.C. put quality and time in to each of their pieces and they reflect that. The denim looks and holds up better than off the rack Levi’s, some pairs of raw denim can withstand up to 5000 wears while the current off the rack levis can take about 200-500 wears.

You can find raw denim at many places, some stores such as American Eagle and Urban Outfitters even carry raw denim. If you want an accessible, not too expensive first pair, take a look at Unbranded. They’re great for as first pairs and seldom go over $100. If you want to take a more expensive route, I suggest checking out The Naked and Famous, or A.P.C. They both provide quality denim in a reasonable price range of $150-200. Other brands I suggest taking a look at are: Cheap Monday, 3sixteen, Nudie, Acne, Gustin, Raised by Wolves, and Levi’s Vintage Collection.

Overall, raw denim, while it may be tedious to take care of, is a definite upgrade from your standard denim. It can show personality and it’s fun to take care of them.

Check out our video we made showing how to soak your raw denim below.

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